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Bell Lane & Evalynn - Origin Trip to El Salvador 2023

Bell Lane & Evalynn - Origin Trip to El Salvador 2023

Completing the coffee circle, producer, roaster & coffee partner. Goran, our account manager, along with Niall, owner of Evalynn Coffee shop, recently travelled to El Salvador to meet coffee producer Fedrico Pacas of Santa Petrona. 
How it Began

I think, if you are reading this story, you might want to read the beginning of the story in our Coffee Journal called “Evalynn” because this is pretty much chapter two of the same story.

But let’s do a little recap here.

Niall opened Evalynn Coffee last year and started his coffee journey with Bell Lane. Needless to say, Drogheda gained a  specialty coffee shop. (much-needed) 

With both of us starting out as baristas, the idea of “let’s do something more”, was brewing in our minds. Niall sparked the thought to have an - Exclusive roast and offer something unique for Evalynn’s customers.

Finca Santa Petrona's black honey-processed Bourbon from the Pacas family in El Salvador had all the desirable attributes for an exclusive coffee - rich, sweet, dark-chocolatey coffee with enticing cranberry and cherry acidity. So, with great assistance from Niko, our head roaster and green coffee buyer, Santa Petrona was soon offered exclusively to all who visit Evalynn.

 

Chapter Two - El Salvador


Fast forward a few months, Andrew from Volcafe extended an invitation to Bell Lane and Evalynn to travel with him to El Salvador and meet the Pacas family, and just like that, we were on our way from Dublin to Toronto to San Salvador.
While on a layover in Toronto, we managed to briefly explore the city's coffee scene and just HAD to give a quick mention to Fika Coffee after having a delicious brew by Yady (owner of Fika Coffee) – amazing guys! 

We arrived in San Salvador after midnight and got some much-needed rest. The next morning, we were greeted by Federico Pacas himself! it sounds unreal, and it felt unreal!

We were then joined by Lily, Federico’s sister, and began the journey toward Santa Ana volcano, where Santa Petrona is located. Immersed in the Pacas family’s history and the coffee culture of El Salvador, Lily detailed some of the joys and also, some of the difficulties that coffee producers in El Salvador face these days, - all while maintaining a smile on her face. Lily is deeply rooted in the coffee growing community, advocating for countless coffee farmers by advising good practices of coffee farming and finding buyers.

Due to road works, we could not access Finca Santa Petrona, so we continued to Finca San Jose which was a short journey to the far side of the mountain.

At the foot of San Jose farm, Lily collected a few bourbon coffee cherries and gave them to Niall and me to taste. They were surprisingly sweet and tasted something between watermelon and pomegranate and a tiny, tiny bit peppery.

We continued deeper into the farm, where some Pacamara coffee trees grew, and finally, we summitted the farm where beautiful Gesha coffee cherries grew and we were treated to breath-taking views of Santa Ana.

Just to give you an idea about picking, the bottom of the farm is quite manageable, but as you ascend it becomes very steep and challenging. I can only imagine picking requires a lot of skill. Each picker can pick approx. 80kg-100kg Coffee cherries per day. After processing, drying, etc. this results in around 16kg of specialty-grade coffee. To be honest, I lose my sleep over that.
 

Next on our schedule was the coffee mill “Beneficio Tuxpal” which is also the Pacas family’s home. The mill is where all magic happens which includes processing, drying, grading, packaging, etc. We toured the facilities at the mill and were then treated to lunch with the entire Pacas family. It’s really hard to explain generosity, kindness, and hospitality!


The day closed with a “blind” cupping session in the coffee lab.  14 coffees, some of them from the same farm, but processed differently, were laid across the table for us to try.  At the end of the session, the coffee from Santa Petrona was favored among all and received the highest score on the table.  At that moment I looked at Niall and he just looked back with a smile. 😊

We said our goodbyes and handed Fedrico a small token from Ireland.  - Their coffee!, roasted by Niko in Bell Lane and served in Evalynn. It is hard to determine who was happier with this meeting - us, for going “to source” and experiencing the farm or the Pacas family, seeing their family name and legacy on our blue bag full of coffee.

 Behind the dream is a vision, behind vision is idea, behind idea is passion.

Standart + Bell Lane Coffee Issue #32

Standart + Bell Lane Coffee Issue #32

Before we dive into the fascinating tale of Los Castaño Coffee Farms, let's take a moment to uncover why we chose this exceptional coffee.  Over the last years the current trends are leading to focus on special fermentation practices that often deliver the cup profile where fermentation is more pronounced than coffee itself. When selecting this Castillo our intention was to remind us that a beautiful crisp washed is still something that will always stay on top of our list.   In the world of specialty coffee, where dedication and passion converge, there are stories that stand out.  Brothers Alfredo and Eunilver Castaño’s journey is one etched with unwavering determination. We are proud to introduce their exceptional coffee to the Standart community.   Producers: Alfredo & Eunilver Castaño  Farms: El Recinto & El Futuro  Municipality: Santuario Department: Risaralda Variety: Castillo  Process: Washed, 360h Extended Fermentation  Cup notes: Floral, Raspberry, Lemongrass, Caramel  In the picturesque landscapes of Colombia's Santuario region lies a tale of resilience, dedication, and an unwavering passion for coffee. Meet Alfredo and Eunilver Castaño, the brothers behind the renowned Los Castaño coffee farms. Through adversity, conflict, and challenges, their journey has transformed barren lands into thriving coffee plantations. This is all while uplifting their community and producing exceptional coffee.   Alfredo and Eunilver Castaño's connection to coffee runs deep. From their earliest memories, they played among coffee plants, learning the art of cultivation from their parents. As youngsters, they embraced the traditions of planting and nurturing coffee, gaining an intimate understanding of the craft. At just twelve years old, they left school to support their family by working full-time on coffee farms. Despite the challenges, Alfredo continued his studies and eventually earned his Baccalaureate.   In 1995, the Castaño family purchased a plot of land, marking the birth of El Recinto farm, meaning 'Enclosure.' With relentless determination, they transformed rugged terrain into a conventional coffee farm. Through hard work, they built a wooden dwelling from harvested wood, nurturing both the land and their dreams. However, life had other plans, and the civil war in 1999/2000 forced them to leave their farm for nearly a year.   The civil war brought immense challenges. The dense forests that once surrounded farms became corridors for guerrilla movements, disrupting lives and businesses. Forced to flee the city of Pereira, the family endured loss and turmoil. During that time, Eunilver worked as a farm manager and saved diligently. With his savings and a small loan, he purchased a 20-acre coffee farm from his aunt, aptly named El Futuro, or 'The Future.' He restored the neglected land, and both brothers together began their coffee planting El Futuro became a symbol of rebirth, complete with a thriving coffee crop, a home for Eunliver's family, and advanced processing facilities for both of their farms.   In 2012, the brothers, along with local families, founded Asocafe Tatama, a collective of high-quality coffee producers. This alliance aimed to enhance coffee value and uplift living standards through collaboration. With 95 families joining the association, their efforts gained momentum. The collaboration attracted Socodevi, an NGO, and Q Processing instructor Hernando Tapasco, who played a pivotal role in shaping the future.  Under Hernando Tapasco's guidance, the Castaño brothers discovered new coffee processing techniques. Their pursuit of excellence led them to specialty coffee, where they could surpass commodity prices. Eunilver focused on production, while Alfredo became a Level 2 Q Professor at the Coffee Quality Institute. Their joint efforts honed their skills in fermentation, processing, and drying, resulting in remarkable coffees.     The story of Los Castaño coffee farms is a remarkable tale of triumph over adversity. Alfredo and Eunilver Castaño's unyielding passion, even in the face of conflict and challenges, has transformed their family's lands into flourishing coffee havens. Their dedication, unity, and commitment to quality have yielded exceptional coffee and inspired an entire community.     BREWING GUIDE   Pour-over V60 02  Coffee to water/ratio: 22g coffee to 340g water 1:15.45  Grind: Medium-fine grind. 20 clicks on Comandante, 7 on EK43 (1-11 dial)  Water temperature:  96°C  Method: Pre-rinse filter, bloom with 50g, at 30 sec pour up to 180g, at 1:15 pour up to 340g final weight.   Brew time: 2:30 – 2:45    French Press  Coffee to water/ratio:  1:15   Grind: Medium-fine grind. 20 clicks on Comandante, 7 on EK43 (1-11 dial)  Water temperature:  97°C  Method: Pour total volume, break the crust after 4:00 min, leave to sit and serve at 10:00      SHAKE-UP Having just moved into our new roastery earlier this year, it seems the perfect time for a brand refresh.  Until the brand launch this October we will still send out coffee in our existing bags!  Alfredo and Eunilver Castaño's connection to coffee runs deep. From their earliest memories, they played among coffee plants, learning the art of cultivation from their parents. As youngsters, they embraced the traditions of planting and nurturing coffee, gaining an intimate understanding of the craft. At just twelve years old, they left school to support their family by working full-time on coffee farms. Despite the challenges, Alfredo continued his studies and eventually earned his Baccalaureate. In 1995, the Castaño family purchased a plot of land, marking the birth of El Recinto farm, meaning 'Enclosure.' With relentless determination, they transformed rugged terrain into a conventional coffee farm. Through hard work, they built a wooden dwelling from harvested wood, nurturing both the land and their dreams. However, life had other plans, and the civil war in 1999/2000 forced them to leave their farm for nearly a year.

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Showcasing Mullingar Town

Showcasing Mullingar Town

Verona's Seasons Working with so many talented creatives in Bell Lane, the opportunity to showcase their work is our honour. Outside of the coffee professionals, Roasters, and amazing Baristas, the talented creatives behind our brand are just as important.  Verona has been our photographer in Bell Lane for the past four years, giving life to our coffee through creative imagery.  Verona has an impressive back catalogue of local photography from our beautiful town of Mullingar. We decided to highlight the seasons over the coming 12 months from our surrounding area that you can share with friends, family, and loved ones The project will highlight our local area, the home of Bell Lane, and where most of our staff live. With the help of The Factory for printing and pulled together by Daisy, we are excited to share this work with you.   Pic: Verona McQuaid   How it works: For every online order, we will include a postcard. Once received, the choice is yours. We would love you to share this with someone special or to keep and build your collection. We will release each set of seasons online at the end of each quarter; they are free. You can donate when buying, Bell Lane will then donate all proceeds to a local charity at the end of the year. This project is about showcasing our beautiful town, sharing our natural surroundings, and hopefully, making you smile.  

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Gesha

Gesha

Gesha became very popular after it was first presented on the WBC stage and that’s how all the “Gesha hype” started.  However, it is important to say that the variety originates from Ethiopia and carries beautiful floral, delicate, and sweet notes that I, as a roaster, love.  Although today with different fermentation techniques some lots in my opinion are taken to a different level where Geisha profile is muted, and we taste the fermentation style in the cup over the variety. Saying that this was my guideline when I was choosing the lots for us. Since this was our first Gesha release I was looking for lots that in my opinion are free of any “modulated” flavours. As I can recall, I first tried Gesha 7 years ago. It was a natural from Finca Hartmann. It was beautiful and I can still remember the time and place when I had it. Trying so many coffees over the past decade, it is amazing that I can still recall it so well. From that moment on I had this goal that one day I’ll be roasting it myself. So here we are 7 years later and I have three different lots, guess when you work towards something it has to happen one day. Logging more than 20k batches and with so much experience it came to me as a reward and a new challenge that I very much looked forward to. Every roaster has their style so now it was my moment to say this is the way it needs to be done. Timing for premium coffee came naturally to our roastery. We have roasted some beautiful coffee over the last few years that when we were brainstorming about bringing something special we all agreed it had to be Gesha to start with. Since I am a green buyer for the company this was my chance to choose the lots that highlight the characteristics of the variety. The Initial idea was to bring only washed and natural but I was asked to cup La Mina for feedback, it was outstanding - and that’s how we ended up with a washed, natural and honey processed Gesha. Monteverde was the obvious choice for me, as an advocate for washed process Monteverde was just beautiful, super floral, delicate, and pretty. Finding a natural was a bit of a challenge as the majority of lots I’ve cupped were not free of “ferment”. The amazing team from Colombian Spirit called and said “we have the natural that you are looking for” and they were right. Inmaculada is beautiful! The natural process was done so gently that you might ask yourself.. is it a natural?  The honey processed La Mina brings a unique experience for those looking to try something with a bit of “funk” When it comes to brewing, I always recommend to everyone to explore and see what works for them when it comes to ratio, water temp, and brew time but we have added our suggested brew guide in the tasting notes for those looking for a guideline. However, I do highly recommend a good grinder like Comandante and using soft water for brewing.   When drinking Gesha, expect coffee with no bitterness. It is very delicate and layered and should be enjoyed slowly allowing the flavours to unfold as it cools.

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